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Masculine Androgyny at Richard Chai Fall 2012

By Klaudia Tirico / February 9, 2012

The Richard Chai collection included lots of wool and cashmere on oversized blazers and sweaters. So naturally, the beauty look geared towards a more masculine vibe.

The Dr. Jart+ team was there to prep the models with their famous Water Fuse BB Cream as a basic primer. Then, James Kaliardos for MAC Cosmetics worked his magic to create a "well scrubbed look that's more masculine than pretty/feminine, but still clean and beautiful," said James. "It's like a Peter Lindberg photo of Linda Evangelista - very androgynous."

James started with concealer under the eye and around the nose to brighten up the face. He applied Prep and Prime Beauty Balm on the cheeks for sheen. To contour, James swept some Pro Taupe Blush lightly under the cheek bone and temples. He wanted to give the girls something that guys have naturally in the eye area - "a Neanderthal look." He applied Coffee Walnut Pro Sculpting Cream in the eye socket while blending up - "so it's not a line, but a deepening and dimension in the eyelid." He made sure to blend well to keep the color from looking like shadow, but "more natural." James finished the look with curled, mascara-less lashes, a strong brow, and a nude lip.

Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizzieri worked with Aveda to create the "happy accident" hair look.
"We did a complete one-eighty on the hair, as if the models started with an idea and then had change of mind half way through." Kevin started by blow drying the hair back while adding volume with Aveda Volumizing Tonic, then he added Grooming Clay (for a matte finish) followed by pomade to add shine. "Normally these two products don't go together," said Kevin, "but by using them together you get a messed up accident." Once that's all done, the models are sent to makeup and when they come back "we change our minds and reverse all the hair back," said Kevin. The result: "a messy, dirty, tucked in the side, deconstructed feel - as if you're taking a sweater off."

The finishing touch was created by Elle Gerstein, manicurist for Essie. She used a semi-shiny top coat over Essie Glamour Purse to "mimic the texture of wool."